I wouldnt be putting anything more than a couple kakariki in a flight that size...even that is getting limitted, and u will need another lot larger flight to to hold the off spring
I NZ (permits etc) there would be no way a flight that size would be approved even for just 1 kakariki .
With such Overcrowding and u will not have a 'happy' unstressed flight, nor will it be a relaxing experiance to enjoy. Plus overcrowding will cause heath problems.
Keep in mind u cant have birds in there then a week or so introduce more, the birds in there will have marked out territories and I would not be suprised if u loose several.
Bottom line, at those dimensions that is not an aviary, it is a large cage..and should be treaded as such. Sry.
Read thru and look at the thread re aviaries, there are suggestions and hints on everything u ask including an idea of cost to build and setup (approx NZ$1400)...to buy an aviary of the size described Approx NZ $2800 to $3200 ..
For what u would like to do, and NOT breed something at least the size in that thread...if going to breed u will need at least another very soon.
When u intoduce nesting boxes, the birds will defend large terriories around the box, depending on the species, and be 5 to 20 meters in radius.
We have a flight, 6m Lx 1.5mWx 2mH with 16 kakariki in..we have to have 4 feeding stations, 2 large water bowls (15liter) with fresh change EVERY day...an that is currently running at its full limit...there is NO way we can put a nesting box in without causing serious stress/health problems, it is just a 'holding' flight.
Also when getting into flocks of birds, u will need an isolation flight to hold any new birds for 6 weeks before introducing into birds u currently have.
To often I have seen ppl think "she will be ok" then introduce a new bird and all hell breaks loose with mites, dease...I can promise u, if u dont have an isolation flight it WILL happen.
I am not enjoying writting this post, I have seen so many ppl in all good faith get a small aviary and havegreat expectations, the birds suffer, they get frusrated and disheartened.
One of the prime purposes of this site is to provide advice, share experiances so others know the 'score' and not make common basic mistakes or have high expectations from very limitted facilities.
With in this site this information is avaliable.
Bottom line your aviary is suitable for 4 budgies , or couple 'tiels, or 1/2 doz finches, or couple burkes....Maximium. _________________ My Spelling is Not Incorrect...It's 'Creative'
Hey congrats on finding a aviary
We have a pair of kaks, 3 pairs of cockatiels and a couple of finches.At the moment the kaks are only in there temporeroly till the new aviary gets built. Our avairy is 8ft wide 14 ft long and 6ft high hence goodby veggie garden! One thing though,I have been told by quite a few people not to put cockatiels and budgies together as they are quite both aggressive and territorial when breeding and generally not good companions in a avairy situation
We just set our avairy up 3 weeks ago and found that ALL my birds love suspended logs(make sure the chain holes arn't big enough to get feet,beaks etc stuck) Once a week I cut a couple of good sized native branches and hang them next to the wire normally near a perch they love to strip the leaves off, knotted rope like you said,although just be wary of putting wood or plastic in your avairy as it wont be there for long! to the beautiful world of birds and enjoy
Well either way the cage is much bigger then the cage the kakarikis are in at the moment, and they seem to enjoy that one alright.
The cage there in at the moment is the Vision210 (Look it up)
its probably bout 1 metre by 1 metre by 1 metre at max...im not really sure... but it holds four feed/water bowls with plastic sides to prevent them throwing seed all over the floor.
I've let the kakarikis out with the budgies and they get on fine...kakarikis seem to get on with nearly every bird they encounter.
Nice idea princess, ill chop a few branches off the annoying tree that overhangs the back garden.
Check toxicity of plant material 1st
if not sure post back
Old dry dead (even starting to rot) branches are best, rather than 'green'
Wash well to prevent worm and other contamination being introduced..We also spray with a 50% soln of vinegar.
Kikes like chew the branches and from our experience green branches don't get 'worked on as much as the dead ones.
We also find it easier to hang the perches rather than fix to walls.
Simply drill a small hole thru each end, thread non tensile #8 wire thru and Right angle bend under the branch, the other end cut to length with a hook. this hooks onto the wire above or a screw into the frame some ware.
Moving perches are more natural, and help with balance
Rope..We use 1 inch natural fibre rope..CAREFULL with this, many natural fibre ropes have preservatives and/oil in them. We get a few off cuts from a local rope making factory before they are treated.
For fruit, this can be hung on removable wire hooks like the perches, and fruit next to a perch, and/or a long screw into the large (Diameter) branches, and the fruit pressed on.
Do not place water/food/seed trays under perches, they will get soiled very quickly.
Toys/Entertaiment...Dont put a several in at a time, they will soon get bored with them all at the same time....rather give 1 or 2 at a time and change each week or so. _________________ My Spelling is Not Incorrect...It's 'Creative'
Thanks steps also for some good ideas,The only reason I am putting cut branches in at the moment is all the aussie natives at the moment are in flower(bottlebrush,gravillia,Eucalypt) and they love to nibble on the flowers and seeds within. Also its keeping prunning down wich is also a plus.Like steps said check that your branches are not going to do more harm that good.
Steps,
One word of warning in regard to using wire hooks in the aviaries. We too thought it was the best way until I came home one afternoon and found a Moustache Parrot hanging upside down and flapping wildly.
He had managed to get his leg ring hooked up in the wire hook we were using for cuttlefish pieces. So no more wire hooks, and these days no leg rings on any of our birds.
Kakariki are very inquisitive and so please be mindful that if the birds have leg rings they cant get them hooked up on something and do themselves harm.
Steps,
One word of warning in regard to using wire hooks in the aviaries
Quote:
thread non tensile #8 wire thru and Right
Hence using #8 gauge wire...this is heavy gauge too big to fit between the band and leg...Also the the 'hook' is 90 deg angle, approx 8 to 10mm.
The problem of wire is often seen with very small 18 or 22 gauge wire one that is used on commercial toys to tie them up.
Also note my mention of using a screws to press fruit onto. don't use a nail. Once again with nails your birds can get hooked up on, a screw has a large head that prevents this.
For cuttlefish, we carefully drill a hole thru the middle from the soft side and use a screw to mount to a perch
Bamboo, I do not favour using, It is too smooth and to regular in size.
Perches are not just for sitting on, they are also for chewing, scratching and gripping, this keeps claws and beaks maintained.
Commercial Dowel perches are also useless, mainly because they are to small, Ideally diameters should vary from 15 to 100mm. We also use old suspended Puriri strainer fence posts (untreated) approx 100mm x1.5 m
These different diameters create varied angles (as in nature) at which the claws grip perches, providing varied changes in use of foot muscles. _________________ My Spelling is Not Incorrect...It's 'Creative'
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